Monday, April 7, 2008

Interfacing?


What is Interfacing?
An Underlying Fabric that provides...
Support

Stability
Body
Reinforcement

Where is it found in the garment?
Collars
Cuffs
Waistbands
Pocket Flaps
Jacket Hems
Sleeve Hems
Collarless necklines
Button Closures

What kinds of interfacing are available?
Sew or Fusible
Woven or Non-woven
Knit
Weft Insertion

How do I choose the correct interfacing for my project?

Fabrication should match
Weight Always lighter that the fashion fabric

Care Must Match
Color Match the VALUE (degree of lightness or darkness)
Method of attachment

How do I use interfacing?

  1. Always pres Shrink (Fusibles in a Tub)
  2. Apply to the piece that will show. DON’T APPLY TO FACINGS (your pattern guide sheet will tell you do apply to facing, which makes no sense because your facing doesn't need the stability, form, etc...)
  3. Fuse to a single layer. DON’T FUSE OVER SEAM ALLOWENCES
  4. Fusing cut off the seam allowances before you fuse
  5. Sew-in interfacing should be machine basted at ¼ from the edge following grain.
  6. DON’T substitute the fabric itself in place of interfacing (UNLESS ITS SILK ORGANZA)

Tips on how to Fuse: (HEAT, MOISTURE, PRESSURE, TIME)

  1. Always test on a scrap to give you the look you want
  2. Press Fabric Flat
  3. Trim off seam allowances
  4. Wrong Side Up (Resin Side Down)
  5. USE A PRESS CLOTH
  6. Steam baste 1st to keep from slipping
  7. Push with 2 hands pressure for 10-15 seconds. Don’t SLIDE the iron!
  8. Let Completely Cool Before Lifting fabric up.

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